holley sniper efi iac problemsholley sniper efi iac problems

Pw. I did change the -40 thing also. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. :-). The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. Save Share. Reducing that a bit will help. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. Good Chris, So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. The last pic is with the car in Drive. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. Check fuel pressure too (. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an Any help would b great. What you are experiencing is rather common. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? I looking for your expert opinion. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. It wont fire up. Capability Range: Professional 2. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. MSD pro billet and 6AL box Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. This is more of a bit of a reality check. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. no timing control. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. If so remove it. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. Enjoy your Sniper! (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? Also its extremely rich at idle. mean that the IAC is causing it. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. 3 different fuel pumps. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. :-). But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. That's what you're seeing. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. Did you find this enlightening? Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. Please advise. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. Hello Chris. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. So the issue Im having is low idle. Does that make sense to you? Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Thanks again for your insights! I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Jump on board now! I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Give us a hand! Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. The problem was RF interferance . The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Try it! You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. What would cause the idle to faulter like that? The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. Thank you very much. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. I think that your timing is too retarded. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. So you installed your Holley Sniper. I never had a problem with this. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. Why is this? The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. TPS 0. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Only show this user . Thanks. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. 1. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. If more info is needed just ask. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Um, no. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. Kind of cuts into forum time. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. Do you have a PCV on the engine? that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. I can get it to fire up on the While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. Thanks again. Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. me know how it works for you. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. I keep doing that with the same result. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. Seems to behave more better now. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. That is the only way to fly. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR.

A Que Distancia Se Siembra, El Coco, Bad Bunny Tickets Monterrey Mexico, Articles H